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  1. #1
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    Default Car stalls immediately after starting..

    Hey guys, havent been on here in a while but I've ran into a problem. I went to Sears the other day and when I came out to drive home the car started but stalled immediately.
    I'm guessing its some sort of vaccuum leak somewhere and I have checked the three tubes that lead to the intake manifold, the throttle body line and the three intake lines without any luck.
    I also read that the problem could be the purge valve, but would it fail completely all of a sudden?
    The gas tank hasn't been locking recently, so I hope no one has been messing with the gas.
    The car has an CPe intake and Injen exhaust(V6).
    I had no luck trying to pull a code the other day with my usb OBDII cable but I will try again tomorrow.


    Any help will be appreciated. Thank you
    Last edited by Tech6; January 30th, 2012 at 04:48 PM.
    03 Mazda 6s - ATX
    CP-E CAI, Optimized TB, TB Spacer, Injen SES Exhaust, Denso Iridiums, Grounding System, 5000k HID, CarPC System, CAR-LED Ring Tail Lights, Bar Grill, BR Lip, 20% Tint, etc....

  2. #2
    needing new tires dfw6er's Avatar
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    Check that the harness to the throttle body and MAF sensors are plugged in as well
    2003 PW 6s MTX, CPE CAI MAF-CI, TRS Mormoto bixenon lows 4300K, Apexcone 4300K integrated fogs in 55W, CAR_LED tails, Superbright LEDs, TB bypass, EGR mod, NGK Iridium IXs , 25% tint, clear sidemarkers, brakelight mod, SU MM, MS STS, Magnaflow CBE, Tokico Blues w/ MS Hatch springs, RX-8 wheels, Exedy stage 1 clutch and Fidanza FW
    How much you wanna bet I can throw a football over them mountains?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfw6er View Post
    Check that the harness to the throttle body and MAF sensors are plugged in as well
    Checked, plugged in.

  4. #4
    needing new tires dfw6er's Avatar
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    OK.....so is it turning over, then completely cuts out....or do the RPMs bounce up and down for a moment, then it cuts out, or does it slowly cut out a la preignition? Try to give us a better description if you can. A video would be helpful as well...both of the engine dying while viewing the instrument panel and also while filming the engine with the hood propped open

  5. #5
    No Net Persona, Just Me!! The Great NY's Avatar
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    Check the mafci box and make sure its working. Willing to bet the box is shot


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  6. #6
    i love a nice rack Drizzoh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Great NY View Post
    Check the mafci box and make sure its working. Willing to bet the box is shot
    This. My car was doing the same thing in the beginning of December. Soldering the wiring on the CP-e MAFci instead of using the scotchlocks fixed it tho. Also take your MAF off and clean it properly with MAF cleaner. Make sure you can tell the IAT sensor on it is orange (it probably looks like a black raindrop right now).

    If it turns on then turns off immediately, it's getting a bad (or no) MAF signal. What did you have Sears do to the car?
    Last edited by Drizzoh; January 30th, 2012 at 05:36 PM.

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  7. #7
    Crew Member ttshark's Avatar
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    Personally I would open the MAFci and check the LED status lights. If it indicates it is functioning fine, remove it anyway. If your MAF is shot, the car should not switch off. In fact if you completely unplug the MAF sensor all together, the car should just run really rich (it does this in my case, 6i, most likely applies to the 6s as well).

    If the MAFci removed does not solve the issue, there must be a vacuum leak somewhere. A large vacuum leak usually allows you to rev the car a few times to keep it running before shutting off completely.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the replies! I will check the mafci first thing(box and wiring), and clean the maf sensor and see if that fixes the issue tomorrow. (Got a lot of studying tonight)
    But to be more specific, the car revs to about 1.5k rpm(intial ignition) and then loses it immediately. So the rpm needle goes up to 1.5k, then down stalling the engine. Ive tried giving it gas while starting as well, and it did absolutely nothing.
    Also, am I looking for something specific with the light inside the mafci?
    Thanks for all the help guys.

    Edit: I wasnt at Sears for the car, I was there looking for tools.
    Last edited by Tech6; January 30th, 2012 at 06:14 PM.

  9. #9
    i love a nice rack Drizzoh's Avatar
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    If you bought the CP-e bypass moule install that and I bet your car will start right up. If not, just going to have to solder that MAFci wiring.. it's not fun.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    If you bought the CP-e bypass moule install that and I bet your car will start right up. If not, just going to have to solder that MAFci wiring.. it's not fun.
    Yeah I have the box, and IIRC they have scotchlocks on them. So i'll solder them on, and see if that works. I remember the wiring being really cramped, so it should be fun.. The worst part of all this is the car is at my apartment with no car port. Which means I'm gonna be doing all this in the freezing cold(Michigan here)..

    EDIT: Took a break from studying to go take a look at the car. But anyways, I guess I did solder the connections.. I don't even remember doing it, all I remember was thinking damn its cramped, screw soldering. But I guess I did.
    I grabbed the CPe box tho, and found nothing that resembled an LED on the outside or the inside. Is there a way to test if its working or not? (I believe the box I have is tuneable as well) Thanks guys

    EDIT: Would simply unplugging the box be a good test to see if the Mafci works?

    EDIT: Actually that above method wouldn't work would it.. Since I remember actually cutting some wires and soldering them on, which means some wires are no longer in series..
    Last edited by Tech6; January 31st, 2012 at 09:24 AM.

  11. #11
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    Bump, any way to test the MAFci and MAF sensor?

  12. #12
    i love a nice rack Drizzoh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tech6 View Post
    Bump, any way to test the MAFci and MAF sensor?
    Already told you how to do it in this thread. Have you tried everything thats been said yet?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    Already told you how to do it in this thread. Have you tried everything thats been said yet?
    Well, I took out the MAFci but I don't see an LED inside, so I don't really know how to test it.
    And I was wondering if there was any other way of testing the MAF sensor itself since I don't have the tools to put the ECU wiring back to how they were. (CPe MAFci wires are soldered onto the wires)
    I shouldn't try starting the engine without the MAFci and wiring back to stock right? Cuz I know that I remember you actually had to disconnect some wires and switch them before soldering

  14. #14
    i love a nice rack Drizzoh's Avatar
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    You only cut the black wire. It replaces its signal with the modified one (original in one side, modified out the other), so you really just need to reconnect that wire (what the bypass module does) and its like you never had the black box.

  15. #15
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    Ok, I'll see if I can find some wire and connect it back, if its just one wire it shouldn't be a problem. My manual for the intake is long gone. But yes, I do have a black box. I'll take a picture.

 

 
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