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  1. #1
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    Default ATX Not Shifting At High RPM?

    Alright, so I have a quick question for you guys to maybe get some advice on this. When I first got the car, I could slam the gas and it would be rev happy, but eventually shift...

    Now at high RPM in 4th gear, and 5th, it gets pretty damn high, but just doesn't shift when I feel it's supposed to. I could be doing like 85-90 in 4th gear, and I have to let off the gas a bit for it to shift to 5th then 6th. Should I just try a fluid change first?

  2. #2
    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    How old is the fluid in it? Does it smell burned? And what's the condition of your motor mounts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    How old is the fluid in it? Does it smell burned? And what's the condition of your motor mounts?
    Not sure. I bought the car with 131k, it's now at 160. After researching yesterday, I think it's the motor mounts. There's some vibrating and definitely a little movement when I go from park to drive or reverse.

    Are they hard to replace?

  4. #4
    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    The dogbone mount in the rear is the most common to rip. If you go to like 4k rpm once it will rip lol. You can easily see this one from under the car, it connects the center of the front subframe to the chassis. There's a good chance all 3 are still original OEM so it would be a good idea to replace them all if that's the case. They're relatively straight-forward, but a set of metric ratcheting wrenches will be your best friend for the transmission mount. My recommendation if it's your daily is to go with an upgraded rear motor mount (dogbone) in a low durometer (60-75). AWR and CP-e are good options, as is SURE if they ever actually released one (though 99% sure it would be overpriced). As for the passenger side and transmission mounts, unless you want a lot of cabin noise and to feel every rev of the engine, replace them with new OEM mounts from Mazda (not random aftermarket ones that 'meet or exceed OEM expectations'). Unless you're upgrading to urethane (AWR, or CP-e), motor mounts are one thing you'll want to stay real OEM with for replacements.

    Did you have a chance to examine the color and scent of the fluid yet?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    The dogbone mount in the rear is the most common to rip. If you go to like 4k rpm once it will rip lol. You can easily see this one from under the car, it connects the center of the front subframe to the chassis. There's a good chance all 3 are still original OEM so it would be a good idea to replace them all if that's the case. They're relatively straight-forward, but a set of metric ratcheting wrenches will be your best friend for the transmission mount. My recommendation if it's your daily is to go with an upgraded rear motor mount (dogbone) in a low durometer (60-75). AWR and CP-e are good options, as is SURE if they ever actually released one (though 99% sure it would be overpriced). As for the passenger side and transmission mounts, unless you want a lot of cabin noise and to feel every rev of the engine, replace them with new OEM mounts from Mazda (not random aftermarket ones that 'meet or exceed OEM expectations'). Unless you're upgrading to urethane (AWR, or CP-e), motor mounts are one thing you'll want to stay real OEM with for replacements.

    Did you have a chance to examine the color and scent of the fluid yet?
    Thanks a ton for the information! I actually went and looked at some guides. Doesn't look too difficult, but I know once I'm into it, it's going to be one big pain in the ass haha! Motor mounts always are!! I think I'm going to get a set of OEM for now and get it done before I do damage to the motor. I'm almost positive it's the motor mounts. When I put her in gear, the car jumps a bit. It would also explain the weird shifting because of everything being off! It is my daily, but I want to get it fixed for now, then will probably upgrade to a good one in a couple weeks (dogbone).

    I have not examined or anything yet. Currently at work, but will when I get home. I might go pick up those mounts and just do them tonight to be honest. Might also setup an appointment with the dealer to do my tranny fluid. I keep seeing topics about the '05 being REALLY REALLY picky with fluid etc.

  6. #6
    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    Motorcraft fluid is pretty much motorcraft fluid. But ATX in general are picky with fluid. With MTX it's easy because you can just do a drain and refill with 3.2q of fluid, but to swap fluids in ATX you need like 12q.

    And np man, there's a good chance the AWR rear mount is actually cheaper than the Mazda one. For my 05 3.0 the passenger side was ~$150 and the transmission mount (under the battery) was ~$150. The passenger side is expensive because it's oil filled. I'd start with the rear though. Even if it's not torn (99.99999% of the time torn), it's a must-have upgrade for the platform.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    Motorcraft fluid is pretty much motorcraft fluid. But ATX in general are picky with fluid. With MTX it's easy because you can just do a drain and refill with 3.2q of fluid, but to swap fluids in ATX you need like 12q.

    And np man, there's a good chance the AWR rear mount is actually cheaper than the Mazda one. For my 05 3.0 the passenger side was ~$150 and the transmission mount (under the battery) was ~$150. The passenger side is expensive because it's oil filled. I'd start with the rear though. Even if it's not torn (99.99999% of the time torn), it's a must-have upgrade for the platform.
    Yeah, mine is a ATX 3.0 Pain in the ass lol. I couldn't find any write ups on the ATX on how to actually do it. There was a thread with a bunch of replies.

    How long do you think I can drive without swapping it? Maybe I can order it now and do it this weekend! What do I need for durometer?

  8. #8
    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    I would go for whatever the lowest duro you can find is for a daily driver. This should be good in a 70 duro. http://store.awrracing.com/engine-mo...r-motor-mount/

    It will be a little rough for the first 800-1k miles, but after it breaks in it should be smooth as glass. The AWR has removable bushings so should you want to go stiffer or they wear out over time, easy to replace. The CP-e does not, but it's still a solid mount since they redesigned it a few years back. I got my hands on one of the StreetUnit mounts they had back in the day with 62 duro, and it was great but I wish I would have gotten a little stiffer on the bushing.

    Here's the CP-e http://www.therpmstore.com/store/p/2...-6-s-3-0L.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    I would go for whatever the lowest duro you can find is for a daily driver. This should be good in a 70 duro. http://store.awrracing.com/engine-mo...r-motor-mount/

    It will be a little rough for the first 800-1k miles, but after it breaks in it should be smooth as glass. The AWR has removable bushings so should you want to go stiffer or they wear out over time, easy to replace. The CP-e does not, but it's still a solid mount since they redesigned it a few years back. I got my hands on one of the StreetUnit mounts they had back in the day with 62 duro, and it was great but I wish I would have gotten a little stiffer on the bushing.

    Here's the CP-e http://www.therpmstore.com/store/p/2...-6-s-3-0L.html
    Well, hopefully nothing major happens in the next couple days. I ordered that mount with 2nd day air shipping. $158 total.

  10. #10
    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    Good shit man! Let us know how you like it!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    Good shit man! Let us know how you like it!
    After ordering the wrong one, and not having my car for a couple days, I finally got the AWR in the bottom. The only mount replaced right now is the dog bone (my passenger is blown too). My passenger mount is on its way to my house today, so that will be replaced as well. Should I be feeling more vibration in the car after installing the mount?


  12. #12
    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    Mount looks gooooood.

    That should give you more vibration at lower RPM until it breaks in, but then should be smooth with much more concise shifting and power delivery. Sucks about the passenger being dead as well, but the passenger replacement (if replacing with OEM) should help make the motor vibration almost unnoticeable after the dogbone breaks in. If you're putting an AWR in the passenger side as well.. you'll feel and hear it.. a lot. lol.

  13. #13
    (ง ̀_́)づ)˚з) (╯□)╯ NurdR4G3's Avatar
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    Shiny. I love new parts!


    This reminds me to check up on my ol CPe dogbone too...
    Last edited by NurdR4G3; May 19th, 2017 at 07:12 AM.
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    whiskey is my yoga Drizzoh's Avatar
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    Did the mount help at all with your shifting?

    How bad was the old mount beat up?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzoh View Post
    Did the mount help at all with your shifting?

    How bad was the old mount beat up?
    Haven't gone too hard, since my top mount is out. Had 3 parts wrong so far, so went to a dealer near. It should be in next week. I have the newer 2005, and I guess the mount changed mid 2005 for the passenger side... So it was hard to find.

    Here's pics of my blown mounts:




 

 
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