[Rainmens]

1. Ignition Timing Advance
2. SRI/CAI
3. Rear Muffler / Cat Back
4. High-Flow Cat or
5. Mounts
6. Throttle Body
7. Transmission Cooler

The mods in this stage will yield a decent increase in gas mileage and a really good gain in both horsepower and torque once completed- around gains of 10whp/10wtq peak!! The installs are relatively easy, which anyone can do with the right tools, but you might have to have a shop install your exhaust modifications as it requires 1 or 2 cuts into the stock system and possibly some welding involved.

1. Ignition Timing Advance
Price: $0
Install: 20-40min
Further Reading http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S10_Timing.html
Pros: Take advantage of higher octane, smoother acceleration, more hp/tq, ECU pulls back when engine knocking is detected
Cons: Cost of using higher octane, Possible knocking from 87
Peak Power Gains: +6whp/3wtq (using 89 octane and timing vs. 87; your mileage may vary)
What you\'re basically doing is igniting the fuel mixture a little sooner by moving the slotted crank position sensor to advance the ignition timing. It will still be within factory specs (8° BTDC set at factory according to Service Manual, 10° BTDC according to Service Highlights- that info alone could be why some stock 6s are putting out slightly higher #s than others). This modification only deals with the ignition; the cam is not affected- therefore, the VVT operations/changes will still engage at the same rpms. While 87 octane works with this modification, those who have experienced knocking/pinging use 89 octane to compensate.

I advise you to reset the ECU so the timing curves/maps can be learned quicker. It will most likely stall just once while trying to find the new idle speed (it won’t stall again while it’s idle hunting the next time you reset the ECU). Some users report a slightly lower idle speed after doing this mod, so don't be surprised if it drops lower than you're used to. You might also want to add some fuel injector cleaner every few tanks if you’re using 89 or higher.

My observations on different octane after this mod:
I've tried running 87 and it didn't seem to accelerate as fast on the freeway (ECU possibly retarding back the timing to a "safer" level). Burned through 2 gallons pretty fast though. I feel almost no difference between 89 and 91 for my 6, but both allow me to get better performance and smoother/quicker acceleration at the cost of lower gas mileage compared to the 87.

From Monzsta, the mod's originator:
Factory timing is highly conservative, plus the ever-present knock sensor will protect the engine. Worst case scenario is the mod won't show any gains, meaning that the engine is utilizing all the advance it had previous, and the ecm is pulling out the added timing due to spark knock. Being users of this mod ARE reporting gains, it would seem the engine can use more timing. My car hasn't shown any improvement in stock form with 87 vs. 93 octane and it seems to now after advancing the timing, indicating the ecm is finally using the knock sensor to determine what grade of fuel I'm running and adapting it's timing maps to compensate. (as it should if the engine were in a max effort tune from the factory, like a 'Vette's.)

Timing Advance + 89 octane dyno:
@3.5k: +2hp, 4tq
@4.5k: +3hp, 4tq
@5.5k: +4hp, 4tq
@6.0k: +5hp, 4tq
@6.5k: +5hp, 4tq

Pictures provided by Werm

2.Short Ram Intake / Cold Air Intake
Cost: $180-350
Install: 1-2hrs / 10-30mins if resonator is removed (resonator removal install: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Pros: More hp, torque, gas mileage
Cons: Concerns of hydrolock
Peak Power Gains: varies (reported gains from 6-8hp)
There will always be a debate whether SRI or CAIs are better for the 3. The easiest way to look at it is that the generally cheaper SRI tubing is short and relies on vehicle speed to provide the engine with cold air while moving. A CAI’s tubing is longer and its filter sits much lower allowing the engine to ingest colder air. CAIs are more expensive because of the R&D involved in finding the right placement of the filter and the right tubing diameter to keep the MAFS (mass air flow sensor) working correctly.

Rain and Hydro locking and CAIs:
Further reading: http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm
This is what concerns most buyers who are shopping for an intake. Common sense dictates you shouldn't be driving hard in the rain anyway, right? AEM users will get some water droplets on the filter even during light rain, mostly caused by the tire splashes that pass through the left wheel well vents. It\'s not a concern if the filter gets wet. The problem arises if you throttle in hard enough that it creates a strong enough vacuum to pull the droplets of water from outside the filter into the tubing. Lots of times, the small droplets evaporate before it reaches the combustion chamber. Sometimes, you'll get a simple CEL and the car becomes sluggish. This can be easily remedied by cleaning the intake tubing with a dry cloth, checking and drying both the filter and the MAF sensor and resetting the ECU or have the CEL code checked for free at a local Autozone before you do the reset. It seems like a lot of work/risk for the cost of using a CAI, but again, you really should be cautious driving in the rain.

If puddles concern you, here are some tips: either accelerate enough before the puddle then let off so the momentum lets you ride through the puddle (TB will still be opened, but the suction won't be as strong as you will be decelerating), or you can cover the wheel well vents with those styrofoam egg crates to resist a lot of the water passing through. The first vent on the left wheel well is about 10in off the ground (~9in. if lowered). To fully submerge the AEM intake filter, the water level would have to be at least 15-16 inches to pass through all the vents or seep in through the bottom grill or the splash shield. 15in is pretty deep!

Where To Buy
therpmstore.com
Ebay.com

3. Custom / Full Cat-Back Exhaust
Cost: $400-$800
Install:1-2hrs
Pros: More hp, torque, gas mileage, aggressive exhaust note
Cons: N/A
Peak Power Gains: +3hp/3tq
While the 6 sounds fine with the stock system, eventually, you will want to upgrade for better flow and further augment gains from future engine modifications. There are several diameters to chose from ranging from around 2.25"-2.5"

Many budget-minded enthusiasts have decided to go the custom route by choosing their own muffler and/or having a shop fabricate piping and choose their own. Sometimes, if you have not completely decided on which muffler and model # to use, someone in the shop can suggest one for you- just make sure you get a “straight-through” design. Your options are having the shop:
- replace the muffler with a straight pipe and put a canister-style muffler at the end
- replace the muffler with a higher flowing unit and keep existing piping
- replace the cat and muffler with higher flowing units
- fabricate wider piping (as long as it’s wider than 2”) and replacing cat and muffler

It should be noted that the “crush-bent” method of bending your custom pipes is not recommended for the best top-end exhaust flow as that method just bends the pipes by force creating an uneven surface at the inside of the bend. It’s “ok” for bumper to bumper and low speed cruising, but once you reach high speeds, you’d want the flow provided by mandrel-bent pipes. Mandrel-bends and larger piping costs extra, and before you know it, your custom exhaust cost can go above $300. For a little more, you can have a full cat-back from one of the kits being mass-produced. If you’re keeping your 6 for a very long time and want to spend the least possible, then go the custom route. Once you decide to get rid of your custom exhaust setup, remember that it’s easier to sell a full kit from a well-known manufacturer as they already come in pieces and easily bolt/slip on together. A shop-made kit will have to be cut into pieces by the shop for easier shipping.

4. High Flow Cat:
Cost: $50+ plus install
Install: Shop: 30min-1 hour
Pros: Higher flowing than stock
Cons: Emission testing legality still unknown
This is a short section as not many enthusiasts are running with high-flow cats. They’ve either stuck with their stock cats to keep their exhaust decibels low, or went straight to test/race pipe setups to have the most gains. The exhaust flow of an aftermarket catalytic convert will almost always exceed that of a stock depending the number of cells it has. The more cells, the more efficient, but it becomes more restrictive. The better ones can cost more than a full exhaust system, but will nowhere reach the power gains of a straight pipe, as it\'s still a cat.

If you wish to use a HFC (high flow cat), someone in a muffler shop can help you choose the right one. The highest flowing ones will be the cheapest/lowest quality as they are built with the least number of cells and precious metals. There should be many brands to choose from, good or bad, as they are universal. A suggestion is find a cat closest to the design of the stock. That style offers the least turbulence.

If you’re going to get one, find the most narrow HFC that has the inlet and outlet matching your exhaust piping, not wide like a muffler, to reduce some exhaust turbulence during high RPM driving.

5. Mounts
Install: 30-90min
Pros: Better shift feel, reduced engine movement and wheel hop for better acceleration
Cons: Lots of cabin vibrations during the first weeks of break-in, some small vibrations felt after break-in. Huge increase in sound when adding the AWR tranny mount.
A stiffer engine/tranny mount can be installed in place of the much softer stock mount. This reduces wheel hop and the bucking from the engine during shifts and hard acceleration. You can easily see the engine buck hard during a simple up shift during a dyno session. The play looks to be almost 3 inches. With a stiffer rear engine mount, you\'ll have to pay close attention or else you\'ll miss seeing your engine just nudge during the break-in period.

The cabin can vibrate strongly during the mount\'s beak-in period, but only at around 1K rpm. The dash, seats, shifter, floor, steering wheel will be vibrating. Over or under that, the vibration subsides. After a few weeks, you only get very little, if any. I get mine at idle speed (at a stop light) when the A/C is on, or when I just start moving from a stop.

Where To Buy
F2usa.com [Lower engine mount]
AWR- http://www.awrracing.com/store/index.php?cPath=34_135

6. Throttle Body
Install: 10-30min Remove intake from Throttle body, remove 4 screws in TB, Take off coolant lines, place new TB in position, re-connect everything.
Pros: +4whp/+4tq in higher rpm range
Cons: NA
These are \'factory new\' Mazda throttle bodies that are fully optimized and polished to provide over 15% more air flow area than the stock unit! This increased air flow results in dyno proven increases in HP and torque for better throttle response you can feel across the entire rev range. These throttle bodies are not only larger in area, but also provide a smoother air flow for reduced intake turbulence using the following optimization techniques

Where To Buy
http://cordovamotorsports.com/

*************** Special thanks to Business for this write-up***************
7. Transmission Cooler (by B&M)
Price: $40-70
Install: 1 hour or less
Pros: Cooler transmission temperatures for better reliability and longer life, slightly increased ATF capacity, better shifting and response from cooler temperatures
Cons: Paranoia of a fitting coming loose and a hose sliding off, Mazda doesn\'t have these on the cars to begin with.
Peak Power Gains: N/A

Heat is the ultimate killer of transmissions. A 25º reduction in operating temperature can result in 20,000 or more miles on a transmission over the course of it\'s life. Transmission coolers on other vehicles have shown 35º-45º drops in operating temperatures.

B&M is one of the most trusted names in this category and the model recommended is the 70264 or 70268. The 70264 comes with an install kit including brackets, is .75\" thicker, and has a higher BTU rating than the 70268

Where To Buy
Summit Racing
Amazon

[monk]

Nice write-up Rainmens! What\'s to be expected from stage III?

[Rainmens]

netmonk wrote:

Nice write-up Rainmens! What\'s to be expected from stage III?

I wish i could take credit... This is actually from M3F\'s. I am just making some minor changes so it applies to the 6i. Stage III will be up by tonight.

[Yogi Bear]

Rainmens wrote:

netmonk wrote:

I wish i could take credit... This is actually from M3F\'s. I am just making some minor changes so it applies to the 6i. Stage III will be up by tonight.

Forget the I, where\'s the S ???

[HostileM6]

Thanks for putting these up rains, actually makes me want to do most of them, the ones I haven\'t done already at least lol.

And Sheldon, it\'s okay, you\'ll live. Ask someone with a V6 to do somethin like this.

HostileM6

[Rainmens]

Alot of these are cheap or free mods.. so definatelly do those. But at this point im going to drill it in to everyone\'s brain to just save up for a turbo.

[HostileM6]

Doing these mods wouldn\'t affect my savings for a turbo, given that I barely have enough for these mods themselves hahaha.

HostileM6

[supp trash can]

Definitely going to bookmark this page.

Very well organized and informative!

Great job.

[Frost881]

Those that know me know that I don\'t normally do this, but I have to ask some total newb questions. On the advanced timing mod, how do you actually do it? Which of the 2 shown bolt do you turn (or both), how far do you turn them, and how do you know how far they should be turned to produce the desired timing (I would assume a timing gun, but that might get costly)?

[Werm]

Frost881 wrote:

Those that know me know that I don\'t normally do this, but I have to ask some total newb questions. On the advanced timing mod, how do you actually do it? Which of the 2 shown bolt do you turn (or both), how far do you turn them, and how do you know how far they should be turned to produce the desired timing (I would assume a timing gun, but that might get costly)?

just loose the bolts and shift the plastic piece all the way down as in the picture and tighten the bolts back up. but NOT TO tight. notice how tight they were when you loosened them.

[Rainmens]

Frost881 wrote:

Those that know me know that I don\'t normally do this, but I have to ask some total newb questions. On the advanced timing mod, how do you actually do it? Which of the 2 shown bolt do you turn (or both), how far do you turn them, and how do you know how far they should be turned to produce the desired timing (I would assume a timing gun, but that might get costly)?

Lol, man its ok to ask questions.

You loosen both bolts, slide it down, and re-tighten. You turn them til there loose and you can move it down, you slide it all the way down.

At the most it advances it 8 degrees, which gives you the most power.

[Frost881]

I\'m currently debating between just advancing all 8 degrees and runnin on 93 or advancing just enough to be able to still run on 87 and still get SOME benefit. How far should I advance to be able to still run on 87?

[Rainmens]

Frost881 wrote:

I\'m currently debating between just advancing all 8 degrees and runnin on 93 or advancing just enough to be able to still run on 87 and still get SOME benefit. How far should I advance to be able to still run on 87?

O.K. well 1. you\'ll never need to run 93. 89/91 would be fine, and Business still runs 87 with this mod, although i wouldnt necessarily recommend that, lol.

[Frost881]

Ya, I figured 93 would be a little overboard (some stations still sell 94 here in Mi!) Would an 8 degree advance on 89 be OK, or should I go for less that that?

[Rainmens]

I used 89 for 9-12 months with the timing advanced fully and never had any issues.